Walking on Orchid Ave at 9pm on a Saturday night, I felt a distinct sense of deja vu.
No, I was not remembering the glory days of my nightclubbing youth. After all, those memories were never exactly clear to begin with.
But still, as I exited the Hilton hotel during a little staycation with my husband, it reminded me of somewhere … somewhere that was not Surfers Paradise.
Looking at the convenience store next door, the buskers over on Cavill Ave, the people everywhere and the busy restaurants, I realised … this reminded me of New York City.
I know that’s ridiculous, I was laughing at myself as I said it to my husband. Yet he knew exactly what I meant.
This did not feel like the trashy, tourist-trap town that locals avoid, but like a cool, urban neighbourhood.
Sure, there was still a clubbing crowd gathering on Orchid Ave, but Cavill Mall had street performers and a pumping non-nightclub night economy.
Walking around, past the beach markets and the new “controversial” Dolphin Riders sculpture on The Soul boardwalk, we meandered in the Centre Arcade.
The tucked-away alley, linking Orchid Ave to Surfers Paradise Blvd, is full of authentic Asian eateries and it was absolutely packed. It was a vibe.
Rising early the next morning for a beach walk, it was even busier.
Well, Orchid Ave was actually pretty quiet, but the Oceanway was packed. Runners, walkers, couples and families were sharing space on the beachfront stretch, while the cafes along the Esplanade were already filling up.
For locals, it looks like it’s finally safe to go back to Surfers.
Because finally, locals appear to be part of the target market. That’s not to say that tourists don’t matter – in this town, they always will.
But it seems council, investors and business alike have realised that if you build the suburb for locals, the tourists will come.
It’s no secret that there is a big budget to bring life back to the heart of the city – from the $100m Surfers Paradise Revitalisation Project to the creation of the $40m Gold Coast Civic and Music Hall.
While these projects will no doubt be appreciated by visitors, they are actually more for locals.
They’re about making Surfers a place people spend time, rather than simply pass through – or actively avoid.
The controversial closure of Surfers Paradise Esplanade was part one of the revitalisation project and, love it or hate it, I can’t deny that it was consistently busy across the weekend.
Meanwhile, construction is now underway at the Gold Coast Music Hall, which will see the Surfers Paradise Transit Centre repurposed into a 2500-capacity venue for live music, community events and cultural activities.
Look, I know it’s become a civic past-time to hate on Surfers, but it actually has changed … and will continue to change, to the tune of $140m-plus.
Unfortunately, it feels like a lot of the people who’d appreciate it the most are the ones most adamant they’re not going back.
Yes, looking at you, fellow Gen-Xers. I know, we found better beaches or cheaper restaurants or cooler bars … we migrated to Broadbeach, to Nobbys, to Burleigh.
But I promise you, the days of the 3am pizza slice devoured while waiting in the Surfers taxi rank are over (unless you want to, no judgment).
While I accept that my NYC deja vu was slightly delulu, I think what I was recognising was the feeling of a genuine city centre that was alive day and night.
Alas, it will no doubt take more than this column to tempt many back into Surfers.
Because the biggest future challenge for the suburb might simply be locals who haven’t updated their opinion in 20 years.
Originally Published in the Gold Coast Bulletin by Ann Wason Moore. View online article HERE.